Bangkok during Covid-19 —What is possible and what is not..
Bangkok has changed, as so much has because of Corona. But some things have also stayed the same.
Although we have been in Thailand for a bit longer now, we haven’t been able to spend that much time in Bangkok yet. Especially after our time in Sri Lanka, we both longed for some modern, lively city life and where better to find that than in the metropolis of Bangkok?
After our arrival in Thailand we spent the first night in a SHA+ hotel in Bangkok but were quarantined there. After we were tested negative, we went on a shopping marathon. We were invited to a wedding in Khao Yai only 3 days after our arrival in Thailand. The motto of the wedding was “Light Blue” and that is not exactly the color we have in masses in our suitcase. So we spent the first and for now only day in Bangkok searching the malls for light blue and especially wedding appropriate outfits for both of us. This took some time but finally we found what we were looking for.
So the first day in Bangkok was already over. We stayed at the Frazer Suits. These are serviced apartments and actually — if it’s not Corona — there is also the Above Eleven, one of the coolest rooftop bars in Bangkok. Unfortunately the Above Eleven was closed. Well, no matter. The next morning we went to Khao Yai, where we spent about 1 week. There we were at the wedding and spent our everyday life otherwise in cafes in the area. In the evenings we went out to eat almost mostly with friends and family and so the time there went by very fast.
The Conrad Hotel in Bangkok
Meanwhile we have been back in Bangkok for a few days. The first night here we spent in a 5 star hotel, the Conrad Hotel. A bit unintentionally, because we had forgotten to book an AirBnB and then none was available on such short notice. But who would turn down a night in a luxurious 5 star hotel? We had anyway planned to spend a night in such a hotel and so it has offered very well.
Actually, we wanted to explore Bangkok on the first evening, but then decided against it, because the last week in Khao Yai was very exhausting. Besides, we had a really great room at the Conrad with a huge bed — really, I have NEVER seen such a huge bed — a great bathroom with freestanding tub, a big TV right by the bed and a very nice view of Bangkok.
So we decided to make it extra special one evening. Resting in bed, a hot bath and then on top of that we ordered dinner from room service. And wow! Our food was brought to us on a fancy serving cart (just like you see in the movies) and then also prepared for us by a staff member. So that was really an incredible experience. If you ever have the chance, you should really try it!
The next morning we quickly went to the pool of the Conrad Hotel. And also here — wow! It’s like coming into your own tropical lagoon. In the middle of the city of Bangkok, the pool of the Conrad Hotel is surrounded by green palm trees, hedges and beautifully blooming flowers.
It’s like diving into another world. Unfortunately, the water of the pool is a bit cold — about 26 degrees — but for a short cooling and a subsequent sunbathing just perfect!
The Icon Siam Mall
In the meantime, we have also found our way back to everyday life. In Bangkok the everyday life of the people takes place mostly in the numerous malls. Outside it is often too warm to do anything during the day. However, this is absolutely not bad, because the malls in Bangkok — or rather in Thailand — are very focused on everyday life. There are countless cafes and co-working spaces that are ideal for working and every mall has one or even more food courts where you can find all kinds of food, drinks and desserts. Of course, there are also more than enough options for shopping and just as many restaurants.
Every mall in Bangkok has its own special style. Some malls, like Terminal 21, follow a theme and I must say, one mall is more impressive than the other. But I agree that Icon Siam Mall is by far the coolest mall in Bangkok. There is not only a floating market in the mall but also a huge street food court, countless stores, an incredibly beautiful “veranda” with one restaurant next to the other and most important: a kind of fairy forest with restaurants, cafes and fancy design.
There is also probably the biggest Starbucks I have ever seen in the Icon Siam Mall. It extends over 2 floors, has its own small office space to work and a large outdoor terrace with a breathtaking view of the river and Bangkok itself. We have visited many malls on our last trips to Thailand, but we have never been as impressed as we are with the Icon Siam Mall.
Also impressive: there are heated, fully automated toilets with a variety of buttons and functions. Real high-tech! And there is probably a water show every evening right on the river, where the water fountains match the music and attract people with bright colors. It’s really a great mall that has it all. Street food, shopping experience, entertainment and a simply impressive flair!
Ratchada Train Night Market and the Artbox
One of my favorite things to do in Bangkok — besides going to the mall numerous times — was always to go to a cool street food market in the evening. There are usually a lot of street food markets in Bangkok as well. Some at fixed locations, others change every now and then. One of the biggest and busiest street food night markets is/was the Ratchada Train Night Market. With over hundreds of small stalls and booths as well as larger, fixed restaurants and bars, it attracts Thais as well as travelers.
There is actually always something going on here. There are all kinds of food, snacks and desserts and also an incredible number of small stalls selling souvenirs, jewelry, bags or even clothes. The Ratchada Night Market is something very special. Or better said — it was something very special. Unfortunately, this large market no longer exists.
We actually wanted to go to Artbox before, another night market near Nana. There we were in 2019 and also 2020 very often. Unfortunately, this market also no longer exists. The entire area here is cordoned off and only an empty, dark area that no longer has anything of the so beautiful Artbox. Due to our great disappointment that the Artbox market no longer exists we went to the Ratchada Train Night Market.
I was firmly convinced that such a large, popular market will probably still exist. Especially since we were even there in the summer of 2021. At that time, some stalls were closed but there was still enough to discover and gradually more merchants and restaurant owners returned. Not to believe that this colorful hustle and bustle now simply no longer exists. It was a real shock to see the empty square. Unfortunately, Corona has also broken a lot here.
The Khao San Road
I have to admit, I was very surprised to see how Khao San Road has turned out. My first visit there was in 2019, before the global pandemic destroyed so much. At that time, it was incredibly busy there. One bar next to the other and one more crowded than the next. A real party mile just. When we were there again in 2020, it was very sobering. There were only a few street food stalls and most bars and restaurants were closed. Understandable at Corona but still a pity. There was hardly any life here, there was no party to think about.
Today, just under 1 year later, there is little to be seen of Corona here. When entering the Khao San Road you have to show your vaccination card or you have to do a PCR test on the spot. For this there is a small booth where you are tested directly. The entrance is monitored from both sides by grids and staff. There are also cameras that check the temperature of the visitors and masks are officially required. As I said, only officially.
As soon as you are on the Khao San Road, the bass roars towards you. Many people — some even without masks — walk along here, cavort in the bars or roar along to the loud party music. The people stand here close together, from Corona and distance is no longer much to notice here. All the bars, restaurants and stalls are open again. You can get your hair braided, try grilled insects or just move from one bar to the next and party.
Police check on Khao San Road — then party again!
Until the police check! :-D Suddenly there is a commotion, the bar owners start to clear the tables and chairs together and the guests stand on the street. But we seem to be some of the few who are confused by the whole thing. A police car approaches and the closer it gets to the bars, the more they clean up and also turn off the music. A friend — a Thai — explains to us that the police are checking and that’s why the bar owners are clearing everything first. But we should just wait a few minutes, then everything would open again.
And indeed. As soon as the police check has passed — without really checking — tables, chairs and drinks are cheerfully distributed again and the party continues as if nothing had happened. After all, it is obvious that alcohol is sold on Khao San Road and that there is also a party going on. During the police control you can not sit in the bars but still the colorful party activity is unmistakable. Nevertheless, the police apparently does not impose any sanctions and the Thais seem to have come to terms with the control accordingly.
We first stay in a bar, where they also distribute balloons with laughing gas. Almost at every table now people sit and inhale the laughing gas from the colorful balloons. The party goes on. And so we also move on to another bar. There is also dancing in the street and almost all visitors are boisterous and cheerful. Until again a police patrol approaches and again all chairs and tables are cleared away. Already very fascinating, how this all runs off here.
Since it was already later in the evening at the second control and also our Thai friend was not sure if we would get in trouble if we had alcohol in our hands, we then decided to leave Khao San Road and go home. It was in any case a very eventful evening and once again a strong contrast to the closed street food markets, the empty MBK or even the luxurious malls.
